The world today is weird. Way weirder than it was 3 months ago. From a panic over a potential deadly disease, to not being able to get toilet paper or groceries, to a month later, meat processors closing leaving a broken supply chain between livestock farmers and grocery stores, you're probably asking yourself "Is now the time to start breeding meat rabbits?"
While I can't answer that question for you, I want to address some of the messy stuff, the not so fun stuff that you may not have considered when in response to a global pandemic you decided to raise you own food. And not saying you haven't thought it through, but in 5 years breeding rabbits I have never had a waiting list more than 2-3 people long. I currently have over 20 people on a list. I even had trouble finding a friend of a friend a trio of meat mutts within a 3-hour radius.
1. Rabbits need care daily, many times twice daily, 365 days a year. When it’s -2 degrees outside you have to haul your butt outside and make sure they have fresh water. You water them and 30 minutes later its frozen solid. Dehydration is actually more devastating for a rabbit in freezing temperatures, so you’ll need a system or schedule to make sure your rabbits get plenty of water at least 2 times per day. Have a full time job? That means you are outside before work cracking frozen water tubs and refilling them.
2. Cage space fills fast. If you have 2 litters at the same time and are growing them to 12 weeks to butcher you’ll need cage space for potentially 24-30 5+lb rabbits near the end of the grow-out period. If you don’t have space to separate them by sex they can even start to fight by then and some may start getting picked on. Also consider that your breeding does may have new litters by this point or are getting ready to start nesting, so they need ample cage space as well.
3. Growing rabbits poop and pee, a lot. Like a lot a lot. They go through 3-4 times the feed as an adult rabbit will to. Expect to be cleaning cages and trays weekly. In the summer it can get stinky, so plan for ventilation, and in the winter the waste is all frozen, so that makes it an extra pain in the rear to clean too. Still a task that must be done though, as unclean living conditions can be a huge contributor to poorly or ill rabbits.
4. Butchering for some is not an issue. For others it can be. I have heard stories of people setting up a rabbitry, getting stock, breeding, fully intent on butchering, educated on the matter and the first time the do it it’s so unsettling they can never do it again. I suggest finding a local breeder or mentor that will let you come learn and help butcher before investing all the time and money into an activity you think you’ll be okay with but later find you aren’t.
Those are just a few of the biggies on a long list of things to consider before getting started with rabbits. I think raising rabbits is an amazingly rewarding hobby. It is a great way for kids to learn about raising animals and the food chain as well as a great alternate food source should the want or need arise for your family. If you have any questions about raising rabbits please feel free to shoot them to us on the contact form at the right. And good luck setting up your rabbitry!
Wednesday, May 20, 2020
Thursday, April 2, 2020
Consideration to Make PRIOR to Bringing Home Your Rabbits
There are so many checklist items you should work through before you bring your first rabbits home, everything from cage location to breed, to should the kids help, how to make sure they are healthy... Here are just a few of the basics to get you started on your rabbit journey.
How much cage space do your rabbits need? The ‘general rule’ in rabbits is that a cage should be 4 times the size of the rabbit and they should be able to stand up on their hind legs in the cage. The smallest cage I recommend is 24"x36" and that's pretty small in my opinion. I keep some around for separating litters or an emergency buck cage, but I like to give my rabbits as much space as possible. Several of my cages have removable dividers, so I can easily turn a 36"x36" cage into a 36"x72". This works well when it’s time to wean the babies, I can just take mom out leaving plenty of space for the kits.
I have also started using some repurposed 8’x8’ chicken pens for my rabbits to have lots of non-wire to run and play and dig in a colony. If you are going to raise rabbits in colony’s please do your research prior and make sure under the floor (my floor is sand) is a layer of wire so they can’t dig out. They will dig out!
Feed and Supplements
Pellets - Rabbits are natural herbivores and can live on a diet of plants and grass alone, however for a balanced nutrition plan most people feed 16-18% protein rabbit pellets. Rabbit pellets are made up of mainly alfalfa and other grains, soy and corn. Depending on your preferences you can find soy or corn free varieties or even organic feeds, but your price point raises as you go up in ingredient selections.
Fodder is another alternative, and in the past when we had just a small handful of rabbits was how we fed the herd. Fodder is 8-10 day old sprouted grains. We had the best luck with barley, but you can use wheat, oats, black oil sunflower seed, etc. You basically soak the seed, water daily (never use dirt, just grow in plastic pans) and by day 8 or 9 when the shoots are 4-5 inches high you feed the plants, roots and all. A very nutritious and more natural way to feed your rabbits.
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| Our very first litter of rabbits ever, a Californian litter chowing down on their fresh fodder. |
Hay and Forage - Rabbits NEED some sort of dried grass or forage to thrive. Sure they can live on pellets alone, but that would be like trying to grow your kid and keep it healthy on 99 cent frozen dinners it’s entire life. Plus their digestive systems need that roughage to keep from having digestional isses. And with gastroenterisis being a common killer of rabbits, most commonly around weaning time, it’s essential to provide a small handful of hay daily for your rabbits to consume.
A note on alfalfa as forage. Most pellet foods are mostly alfalfa, so if that’s your main diet, I recommend not using alfalfa hay so your rabbits don’t overdo it. I would stick with a timothy or mixed grass hay.
Daily Care
Other than food, water and daily checks, your rabbits shouldn’t need much care on a daily basis. I check toenails once a month, trim if necessary. Daily handling helps your rabbits to adjust to you and not be skittish. It also helps keep their stress levels down when they have a box full of babies you want to dig through. If you are planning on showing your rabbit be sure to start practicing with them, positioning them, brushing them regularly so they are calm on the show table.
These are just a few items to get you started. As you begin your adventure into rabbits you will learn things along the way. Talk to other rabbit breeders, join Facebook groups, do online research and you will learn so much. And other than that just enjoy your rabbits!
Monday, March 23, 2020
Choosing a Rabbit Breed
So you've decided you want to raise rabbits. Pretty exciting. It is a rewarding and fun hobby that is great for singles, couples or kids alike. Assuming you've done a bit of research or that research has brought you to my page, I've put together the basics of choosing the breed (or breeds) of rabbit that is right for your situation, needs and goals.
When looking at different breeds of rabbits to start your rabbitry with (and I use the word rabbity as an all encompassing term, whether you have 2 rabbits or 50) there are several questions you should ask yourself.
All together the main point is that it's important to do your research prior to getting your first rabbits. Having all your supplies ready is one thing, but starting out with a breed that isn't going to help you meet your goals or expectations can ruin the dream quickly.
And like with any animal, remember that starting with quality is key. Not everyone wants to show their rabbit, but show stock is premium quality, and I recommend starting with the best. It's much harder and more costly to improve quality on poorly bred rabbits then to start with good stock from the beginning.
When looking at different breeds of rabbits to start your rabbitry with (and I use the word rabbity as an all encompassing term, whether you have 2 rabbits or 50) there are several questions you should ask yourself.
What purpose are my rabbits to be used for - Food/Meat, Pet, Fur, Show Stock or just for fun?
Once you decide this you can start narrowing down breeds. Breeds like New Zealand, Californian, and Silver Fox are great for meat and show, but I would't recommend New Zealand or Californians for pets or for fur production. If you are only looking for pet, maybe consider a small breed that are easier to find homes for like Lionheads or Mini Rex.
How much time do I have to devote to my new hobby?
If you only have a few minutes a day then breeds that require additional care, like angora's for coat care, may be off the list for you. Consider the time you have available when considering the number of rabbits to get as well.
How far are you willing to drive to get your rabbits?
Some breeds, Silver Fox included, are harder to find quality stock for. You may drive several hours up to several states to find good quality stock. I regularly have people from 3+ hours out and surrounding states come to my for Silver Foxes. Visa versa I have gotten rabbits from NC, MI, AR and all over to get the best stock I could. Now a breed like New Zealand are much more common, so finding decent stock may be easier.
All together the main point is that it's important to do your research prior to getting your first rabbits. Having all your supplies ready is one thing, but starting out with a breed that isn't going to help you meet your goals or expectations can ruin the dream quickly.
And like with any animal, remember that starting with quality is key. Not everyone wants to show their rabbit, but show stock is premium quality, and I recommend starting with the best. It's much harder and more costly to improve quality on poorly bred rabbits then to start with good stock from the beginning.
Friday, March 20, 2020
Silver Fox Rabbits; Black vs Chocolate & the Dilute Gene
In our previous post, Silver Fox Color Genetics 101, we covered the 5 alleles of a rabbit color genotype; A, B, C, D, E.
We learned that the A, C, and E allele are moderately unimportant in most Silver Fox rabbits, should the outlier of a REW (C allele) or Steel (E allele) pop up occasionally.
So lets look at the important alleles that we need to get the colors we want when selecting breeding pairs; the B and C alleles.
We learned that the A, C, and E allele are moderately unimportant in most Silver Fox rabbits, should the outlier of a REW (C allele) or Steel (E allele) pop up occasionally.
So lets look at the important alleles that we need to get the colors we want when selecting breeding pairs; the B and C alleles.
Here is a pictographic showing the color genotypes of the 4 phenotypical 'colors' of Silver Fox rabbit. Note I put 'colors' in quotes, as genetically speaking all Silver Fox rabbits are Black or Chocolate, some just have a double dilute gene masking the full color of the rabbit.
Silver Fox Rabbit Color Genetics 101
Rabbit colors are based on 5 basic genes, A, B, C, D, E. These gene codes (alleles) make up the genotype of the rabbit. The genotype determines the phenotype, what you see when you look at the rabbit.
Specifically, in this post we are going to talk only about the Silver Fox rabbit and its basic colors (black, chocolate, blue, lilac). Although it is important to note once in a while a white silver fox will pop up with the right gene variances, depending on the genotypes of your rabbits.
Silver Foxes are a relatively simply breed to determine colors on compared to breeds like Rex, who have many colors and genotype combinations. To get the rabbit coat colors want, it is very useful to be at least somewhat familiar with rabbit coat color genetics. Breeding wisely with purpose will help you know ahead what colors to expect in your offspring.
The 5 gene locations act upon the TWO basic colors in a rabbit's coat - black, and yellow - changing how those two pigments get expressed in the rabbit's fur. Some genes produce a color, and some genes turn OFF a color.
A: Agouti hair shaft pattern | Silver Fox Rabbits have 2 “aa” genes, so we will not focus on this gene location. Basically (aside from the silvering) they are one solid color top to bottom, unlike some breeds with underbellies and fee different colors than their topside.
B: Black (or chocolate) | This allele is important in Silver Foxes. Black and Chocolate are the 2 color types in Silver Foxes, both with a dilute version (well get to that later). Black is dominate to Chocolate. So any rabbits with a “BB” or “Bb” will phenotypically display as Black. The “Bb” carries one Chocolate gene though. Chocolate Silver Foxes must have two Chocolate genes on the B allele, so “cc”. They only carry the Chocolate gene, so EVERY single offspring they have will be passed at least 1 Chocolate gene and be a carrier at minimum.
C: Complete color (or shaded, or albino) | Some Silver Foxes carry a “c” gene, and 2 copies will produce a REW (Red Eyed White) rabbit, but it is not overly common and both parents must carry a small “c” on that gene location. So any Silver Fox rabbit that displays color will be “CC” or “Cc” on the C gene location.
D: Dilute color | This allele is important in Silver Foxes. The dilute gene determines if the color on the B Allele will show as a full color or a diluted color. Blue is the dilute of Black and Lilac is the dilute of Chocolate. Full color (non-dilute) is dominant to dilute, so dilute Silver Foxes (Blue or Lilac) must have two dilute genes on the D allele, so “dd”. Like the Chocolate gene, dilutes only carry the dilute gene, so EVERY single offspring they have will be passed at least 1 dilute gene and be a carrier at minimum.
Other Important Things to Know or Remember
Capitalized letters almost always refer to a dominant gene, and lower case to a recessive gene.
A "place marker" is used in the spot of an unknown, second gene copy, represented by an dash A-B-C-D-E-.
Since the capitalized code letters represent dominant genes, you cannot know by looking at the rabbit what the second code letter of the pair is. When the rabbit coat color genetic blueprint is not fully known, the place markers are used. A study of the pedigree, and test-breeding’s will reveal the identity of the recessive genes.
A genotype refers to the full set of underlying rabbit coat color genetic codes. Phenotype refers to what the rabbit actually looks like.
Specifically, in this post we are going to talk only about the Silver Fox rabbit and its basic colors (black, chocolate, blue, lilac). Although it is important to note once in a while a white silver fox will pop up with the right gene variances, depending on the genotypes of your rabbits.
Silver Foxes are a relatively simply breed to determine colors on compared to breeds like Rex, who have many colors and genotype combinations. To get the rabbit coat colors want, it is very useful to be at least somewhat familiar with rabbit coat color genetics. Breeding wisely with purpose will help you know ahead what colors to expect in your offspring.
The 5 gene locations act upon the TWO basic colors in a rabbit's coat - black, and yellow - changing how those two pigments get expressed in the rabbit's fur. Some genes produce a color, and some genes turn OFF a color.
The 5 Color Genes in Rabbits
B: Black (or chocolate) | This allele is important in Silver Foxes. Black and Chocolate are the 2 color types in Silver Foxes, both with a dilute version (well get to that later). Black is dominate to Chocolate. So any rabbits with a “BB” or “Bb” will phenotypically display as Black. The “Bb” carries one Chocolate gene though. Chocolate Silver Foxes must have two Chocolate genes on the B allele, so “cc”. They only carry the Chocolate gene, so EVERY single offspring they have will be passed at least 1 Chocolate gene and be a carrier at minimum.
- A Black Silver Fox will always have “BB” or “Bb” on the B allele (and be “DD” or “Dd” on the D allele, we’ll get to that too.)
- A Chocolate Silver Fox will always have “bb” on the B allele (and be “DD” or “Dd” on the D allele, again we’ll get to that.)
C: Complete color (or shaded, or albino) | Some Silver Foxes carry a “c” gene, and 2 copies will produce a REW (Red Eyed White) rabbit, but it is not overly common and both parents must carry a small “c” on that gene location. So any Silver Fox rabbit that displays color will be “CC” or “Cc” on the C gene location.
D: Dilute color | This allele is important in Silver Foxes. The dilute gene determines if the color on the B Allele will show as a full color or a diluted color. Blue is the dilute of Black and Lilac is the dilute of Chocolate. Full color (non-dilute) is dominant to dilute, so dilute Silver Foxes (Blue or Lilac) must have two dilute genes on the D allele, so “dd”. Like the Chocolate gene, dilutes only carry the dilute gene, so EVERY single offspring they have will be passed at least 1 dilute gene and be a carrier at minimum.
- A Blue Silver Fox will always have “dd” on the D allele and be Black on the B allele “BB” or “Bb”.
- A Lilac Silver Fox will always have “dd” on the D allele and be Chocolate on the B allele “bb”.
Other Important Things to Know or Remember
Capitalized letters almost always refer to a dominant gene, and lower case to a recessive gene.
A "place marker" is used in the spot of an unknown, second gene copy, represented by an dash A-B-C-D-E-.
Since the capitalized code letters represent dominant genes, you cannot know by looking at the rabbit what the second code letter of the pair is. When the rabbit coat color genetic blueprint is not fully known, the place markers are used. A study of the pedigree, and test-breeding’s will reveal the identity of the recessive genes.
A genotype refers to the full set of underlying rabbit coat color genetic codes. Phenotype refers to what the rabbit actually looks like.
Welcome to Gyphon Farms
Hello! As the description says, we are a breeder of purebred, pedigreed Silver Fox rabbits in Central, MO. Our website is dedicated to the information and celebration of the Silver Fox Rabbit breed and all breeds of rabbits. Here you will find resources on rabbit husbandry, evaluating silver fox rabbits, breeding, feeding and enjoying all things Silver Fox Rabbit.
I have been working with Silver Fox rabbits for 4 years now, and of the several breeds I have dabbled in, have decided they are the best all around rabbit for meat, fur, brooding ability and personality. They are generally very healthy hygienic rabbits that grow quickly but also have unique personalities. And of course are beautiful animals.
I primarily got into rabbits to help supplement food costs for my 3 raw fed mastiffs. I wanted a breed that was hardy, would grow fast, but wasn't your run of the mill red-eyed white meat bunny. No thanks. After some research I settled on Silver Fox and found a breeder a few hours away and the hobby started.
Now 4 years later, I would like to share what I have learned with others interested in the breed. When doing research myself I found it hard to find all the resources needed in one space, and specifically information about Silver Foxes, so this is my remedy. Any rabbits I have available will also be posted to this page, so please check back often for updates, new posts and upcoming litters and available rabbits.
You can find us on https://rabbitbreeders.us/.
I have been working with Silver Fox rabbits for 4 years now, and of the several breeds I have dabbled in, have decided they are the best all around rabbit for meat, fur, brooding ability and personality. They are generally very healthy hygienic rabbits that grow quickly but also have unique personalities. And of course are beautiful animals.
I primarily got into rabbits to help supplement food costs for my 3 raw fed mastiffs. I wanted a breed that was hardy, would grow fast, but wasn't your run of the mill red-eyed white meat bunny. No thanks. After some research I settled on Silver Fox and found a breeder a few hours away and the hobby started.
Now 4 years later, I would like to share what I have learned with others interested in the breed. When doing research myself I found it hard to find all the resources needed in one space, and specifically information about Silver Foxes, so this is my remedy. Any rabbits I have available will also be posted to this page, so please check back often for updates, new posts and upcoming litters and available rabbits.
You can find us on https://rabbitbreeders.us/.
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